City Guide: Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)

Yangon is a bustling city chock-full of amazing people, culture and cuisine that could keep you occupied for weeks. If you’re the romantic type, all you have to do is look up to fall in love with the aging beauty of the many architectural gems dotted along whichever downtown street you happen to stroll. Between the barbecue stands and drink stations on 19th, the many beckoning pagodas, and shopping-mecca Bogyoke Market, it might be hard to make an itinerary that also suits your conscious travel desires. Here are a few options to help make all of your mindful travels come true in Myanmar’s largest city, former capital, and reigning commercial center.

Eat:

Cafe Genius – 220 31st St, Upper Block (near Bogoyke), Pabedan, Yangon

With extensive brewing options ranging from espresso to siphon, this is easily one of Myanmar’s most advanced coffee houses. They boast a ‘seed to cup’ approach, sourcing their beans directly from farmers in the Shan Highlands of northern Myanmar. Shade-grown under indigenous trees to help preserve local biodiversity, the beans are then hand-picked and washed in a chemical-free process. They are in the process of seeking a Fair Trade certification, and encourage environmentally friendly practices by offering discounts on bulk coffee when using one of their reusable bags. And, with 10% of profits going to Danu Hill Tribes development, it really is coffee with a conscience. Menu options include: specialty coffees, shakes, smoothies, and a light snack list.

Shwe Sa Bwe – 20 Malikha St, Mayangone, Yangon

Shwe Sa Bwe is a hotel & restaurant training center which, over the course of an 11 month program, prepares disadvantaged Myanmar youth for a professional career in hospitality. Using the restaurant as a training ground, students gain on-the-job experience by working in a fine-dining setting alongside their supervisors. All course fees are covered by the program, and only those who cannot afford to pay for similar training courses are considered in the selection process.

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Their set menu, based on gourmet French cuisine, features a rotating list of multiple-course options. Operating out of an exquisite mansion north of Inya Lake, the prices are a bit high even for Myanmar standards, but the skillfully-prepared food and relaxed fine-dining experience is likely the best you will find in Yangon today.

LinkAge Restaurant & Art Gallery – 221 Maharbandoola Garden St, 2nd floor, Kyauktadar, Yangon

This restaurant-in-art-gallery was set up by Forever, a Yangon-based volunteer group, as a way to shelter and empower street children through vocational on-the-job training. While the single balcony table remains elusive in its birdseye view onto the action below, the four additional tables inside are surrounded by a gallery of beautiful paintings done by local artists. All is backed by bright yellow walls and a ceiling mural to give it quite the funky atmosphere as you feast on their savory Chinese-Myanmar fusion cuisine. The feel is best for an easy, casual meal out.

When ordering beware: while the menu is expansive they often seem to be “finished” with many of the items on the list. The grilled eggplant is delicious and the snapper has been said to be great, but I myself struck out with a sub-par tea leaf salad. Finding this restaurant is also a bit difficult. It is located in a second floor space on Maha Bandoola Garden Street just a few doors in from Maha Bandoola Road. When cruising down the street in pursuit, make sure to keep your eyes up!

Yangon Bakehouse – Pearl Condo, Block C, Ground Floor, Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Rangoon, Yangon

Dedicated to providing disadvantaged Myanmar women with job skills, life skills, professional training and a future of opportunity, Yangon Bakehouse is a social business at heart, and a restaurant at close second. Over their ten month program, participants are employed at the cafe, paid a fair living wage with health benefits included, and given life skills courses and on-the-job training through it’s completion. Beyond this, they are even provided with career support after successful program completion.

With a scope that expands to the environment and healthy living, the Bakehouse seeks to connect with like-minded suppliers: small farmers and growers who are using sustainable cultivation practices. Menu items include: a range of baked goods, sandwiches, salads, soups and coffee.

Do:

Learn To Cook with Harmoneat

This is one of those social initiatives with a concept so accessible it has the potential to reach millions. Taking a focus on building community via food, Harmoneat seeks to fund its outreach programs through cooking classes offered to travelers, residents, and anyone else interested in learning about Myanmar cuisine. You may choose to start off with a trip to the market to stock up on veggies, spices, and whatever else will be used in the day’s class. Or you might just arrive in time for the cooking itself. All is followed by a mouth watering meal produced by the fruits of your own labor!DSC_1192

With a menu that changes to best fit the season, this team of Myanmar instructors will undoubtedly give you a culturally delicious experience that will leave your taste buds hungry for more. Good thing they follow up with all the recipes from class!

Shop:

Pomelo – 89 Thein Pyu Rd, 2nd floor, Botataung, Yangon

From artisanal crafts to handmade clothing, jewellery from recycled material and more, Pomelo offers ethically-sourced handicrafts with a contemporary slant, all produced by various marginalized groups of Myanmar. As a not-for-profit business, all items are sold with aims of empowering producers socially and economically by providing them with a fair trade marketplace to sell their goods. Among the nearly 30 groups supported are: HIV sufferers, street youths, the mentally and physically disabled, and small family businesses fighting poverty.

Walking through the store is almost like walking through a social museum; you will find various informational leaflets and handouts on the groups and associations that worked to produce specific goods. Stylish, ethnic, and with tangible social benefits, it’s hard not to feel good indulging in the treasures you’ll find here.

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